#3055 the last day in BCN: Casa Vicens and Tibidabo

Thompson fam at Casa Vicens (photo by Lizzie)

 On our final day in Barcelona, we started out by going the La Boqueria because MT wanted to buy paella seasoning, and we'd seen some there when we walked through before. I don't need to be coaxed to go into this amazing open market. The smells, the noise, the displays - all of it makes me feel happy.

fruit shop in La Boqueria

We bought four boxes of paella seasoning. We did not read the fine print that each box contains six packets of seasoning. The good news is that MT has already made paella using a seasoning packet, and it was really good, so I'm sure we will use the remaining 23 packets without hesitation.

The main events of the day were a tour of Casa Vicens and a trip to Tibidabo for all five of us. We took two separate taxis to get to Casa Vicens. It was just a couple of miles from the hotel, but it was a warm day and it was a bit farther than we wanted to walk. I wasn't sad about taking the taxi. 

Casa Vicens is the first home Antoni Gaudi was commissioned to design. It is in the Gracia neighborhood, tucked away on a small street. It is very distinctive. 

Casa Vicens

It was built as a summer home for the Vicens family. At the time, the area was mostly empty fields with lots of marigolds. I am fascinated by the way Gaudi was able to design homes in such a way that the air was cool in side. I've been in four of his houses, and all of them share this trait. I think he was a genius. 

My favorite thing about the house was this indoor/outdoor patio. I strongly suggested that MT take a good long look at the design and architecture and recreate it at my house. He laughed in my face. It's just so pretty, though!

outside view of the patio

inside the patio

I love love love the screens and that fan fountain is amazing! I also love the inclusion of the marigold motif in the tiles on the fountain. The colors are so pretty throughout the house. 

There isn't any furniture in the house, which makes sense because so many people go through it every day, although not nearly as many as in Casa Battlo. We had timed entry tickets and we went right in and were able to spend as much time as we liked looking around the house. There was an audio tour that explained the design and function of each room. It was well done. 

The rooftop patio didn't offer much of a breeze or shade on this particular afternoon, but I have to share this pic of Lizzie because her 'fit totally matches the color scheme of the patio, and she looks really cute.

my adorable little sister

After a thorough examination of the gift shop, we went to the little cafe on site to get our ice cream. Our tour was called "Sweet Gaudi" and included a scoop of either pistachio or mango ice cream. I was the only one who got pistachio and it was delicious. We also drank Cacaolat, a chocolate milk drink that originated in Barcelona. Drinking the Cacaolat really triggered some wonderful childhood memories, as did the next place we visited, Tibidabo.

We took two separate taxis to mid-mountain to a restaurant called Mira Blau. We got there around lunchtime, and it was Saturday, and the place was quite busy, so we made a reservation for a couple of hours later, then rode the funicular to the top of the mountain where the park is.

going up the mountain

My grandparents lived in an apartment that wasn't far from the tram stop that would take us to mid-mountain. Then we'd take the funicular up to the top. Tibidabo is an amusement park. When we were kids, Lizzie and I really liked to go there to ride the bumper cars and the little train and play the arcade games. Now our main interest is the view. You can see across the whole city to the sea from up there. It was a little hazy on this particular day, but it was still magnificent.

my people admiring the view

ussie of T and I

ussie of me and my hubby

beautiful Barcelona with the Sagrada Familia on the right

There is a church at Tibidabo, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. You know, I don't think I've ever been in the church. I think I've always been intimidated by the many, many steps it takes to get up there. MT and T were game for it though, so they went to check it out. I bought some churros and some water and hung out with Mama and Lizzie. I took a photo of the church though. You can't not take a pic of the church. It's grand.

Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

Satisfied with our time at Tibidabo, we took the took the funicular back down to mid-mountain and went to Mira Blau for a late lunch. We had a great table by the window which gave us a lovely view of the city. The food was good and we were all happy to be there. Here's my cute mama at the restaurant.

Mamacita! (pic by Lizzie)

We took taxis back down to the Gothic Quarter. As we were making our way to the hotel, we were passed by these:

los gigantes!

There was some kind of festival going on, and there were three pairs of these king and queen giants parading through the Gothic Quarter, then they danced and twirled in Plaza San Jaume just down the street from our hotel. There were fireworks and music and it was a scene, although not as crowded as I would have thought. MT and I watched from our balcony. T was napping. Mama and Lizzie went to the Plaza and saw it all up close and personal. 

For my part, I was plumb tuckered out. My mind was willing to go back out, but my body was tired, so my last night in BCN consisted of packing my suitcase and going to bed early. We had an early wake up call the next day for our ride to Playa de Aro. I'm kinda sad we didn't go out that night, but I'm also kind of okay with it, too. I felt like I did pretty much everything I wanted to do. I didn't eat as many pastries or churros as I intended to eat, but maybe that's okay. Next time ;)

That wraps up our four glorious nights in Barcelona. Even though I didn't get to drink from the Font de Canaletes, I feel certain I'll be back in my favorite city at some point.

I'll write again on Saturday and tell you all about our food adventures in Playa de Aro. We spent three nights there and I was full the whole time. 

PS: MT is going backpacking in Canada on the West Coast Trail for a week. He left for Pocatello today. He is going with his brother Kevin and Kev's wife, Janet. They are driving, so they will be gone for a couple of weeks. I think they'll start the trip on Saturday. I'll keep you posted!

xo 

#3054 Barcelona: level 60 achieved

I am 60 years old!

Last year when I was thinking about retiring from work and about turning 60, I had a brilliant idea that I would like to spend my birthday in my favorite city, Barcelona, and have lunch at my favorite restaurant, Can Culleretes, with my favorite people: MT, T, Mama, and Lizzie.  All of my working life I my birthday has usually been spent in the office closing the monthly books. In 2026, I wanted to celebrate so many things: my retirement, MT's 65th birthday, my 60th birthday, T's first trip to Europe, and being with my people  It seemed like all I could think about because I wanted it so much. There were a few times I didn't think it would work out, but I'm so thankful that it did. I had a really great day! Let me tell you about it.

We started out having breakfast with a view of the Cathedral. There was a busker singing in the plaza with a great voice. The sun was shining through the scattered clouds. The temperature was very pleasant. I had a cafe con leche and a croissant and I felt great.

MT perusing the breakfast menu

Mama and Lizzie arrived shortly after we ordered - they had breakfast at their hotel. The reason we gathered so early was that Lizzie had scheduled a professional photo shoot for us! Did you know you can do that through Viator? 

We met our photographer, Borja, in front of the Cathedral, and for the next 30 - 40 minutes, he took photos of all of us in nearly every combination EXCEPT with Mama and Lizzie together. How did we miss that combo? Ugh, so disappointed in missing that opportunity. The photo at the top of this post is one that Borja took. I think it turned out okay, although it felt incredibly awkward. I was even mouthing those words as he was snapping the photos. Here are some of the pics we chose:

I love this one even though (or maybe because) I'm tucked away

Lizzie and I are supposed to be kissing Mama, I was cracking up!

father and son posing for their boy-band album cover

Lizzie and I strolling through the Gothic Quarter

another family shot

After photos, we went for lunch at Can Culleretes. Did you know it is the oldest restaurant in Barcelona? They've been in business since 1786. Isn't that incredible?

dreams come true! (photo by Lizzie)

I don't know if I can fully express how delighted I was to be celebrating my birthday at this restaurant with these people. Truly, it was very precious and special for me. I get a little misty-eyed thinking about it now.  The food was great, the service was good, and it was all just really, really wonderful.

I am a lucky, blessed woman

We were all full of delicious Catalan food and a little worn out from smiling for Borja, so after lunch we went to our rooms to rest for a little while. Lizzie texted me after an hour or so and we decided to have art time in their extra hotel room. (It's a weird story, and I'm sure Lizzie will write about it in her blog at some point. For now, just know that Mama and Lizzie had an extra hotel room, so we used it to have art time.) The extra room had a wee balcony that overlooked Via Jaume, so we took this photo, which I love.

could I be any more pleased?

In the evening, the five of us went to Plaza Real to have aperitivo, then MT, T, and I walked to Casa Battlo for a tour. I've never been in the house, and MT was curious to see the inside. If you don't know, Casa Battlo is a house that Gaudi designed for the Battlo family.

exterior of Casa Battlo

MT and I in the first floor room

I'll be honest: I did not love this tour. It was an audio tour, and that part was fine, but there were so many people in the house and I just felt like sheep being herded from room to room. The only rooms we saw were "public" rooms, not anywhere the family lived. The family quarters were on higher floors and you had to pay extra on the spot to have access to those rooms and to the roof where the dragon is. However, none of that was made clear when I was buying the tickets, so I was kind of bummed about it. The architecture is stunning, of course, but I got a lot more enjoyment from seeing Palau Guell the last time I was in Barcelona, and I also really like Gaudi's house in Parque Guell. Take photos of the outside of Casa Battlo, but go to the other places for smaller crowds and equally beautiful architecture. At the house in Parque Guell, you can also see furniture that Gaudi made. 

On the way back to the hotel, I detoured us just a little to see The Kissing Wall. The mural's title is really "El mon neix en cada besada" (The World Begins with Every Kiss.) The mural is created by 4,000 little tiles of individual photos that people sent the artist. Here's a sample:

 It was installed in 2014 by a photographer, Joan Fontcuberta, and a ceramicist, Toni Cumella.

El mon neix en cada besada

I think it is so cool. Can you even imagine putting that together? Fantastic. If you are in Barcelona and want to see it, go to the Cathedral, then turn your back on the Cathedral and make your way down the little street that has the Picasso piece wrapping around the side of the building. You'll pass a little ice cream shop and a cafe and there's the mural. It's just a two minute walk from the Cathedral. 

We got ice cream from that shop we passed - I probably had a scoop of coffee and a scoop of caramel or chocolate. Yum! As we were eating our ice cream, there was singing coming from the area to the right of the Cathedral. There were around a hundred of people singing "Imagine" by John Lennon and other peaceful songs. What a fantastic way to end the day! I will always remember this birthday.

~~~

On Thursday I'll be writing about visiting another house Gaudi designed, Casa Vicens, and about going up to Tibidabo for the views.

xo

#3053 Barcelona: Sagrada Familia, Els 4 Gats, and my model face

 

ussie in front of the Sagrada Familia

On our first full day in Barcelona, I met Lizzie early in the morning for a short walk and to get a coffee. We decided to walk through El Born, just across Via Laietana from the Gothic Quarter. It was nice to stroll there with no one but residents out walking their dogs. El Born is a cool old neighborhood.

we saw this groovy feminist art installation

El Born in the morning

The big plan for the day for all of us was to go to the Sagrada Familia, but not together. My little family of three had a tour of the inside of the church, while Mama and Lizzie were going to walk around the outside. We told Lizzie and Mama we'd see them later, and MT, T, and I set out walking.

We had plenty of time before the tour, so we stopped on the way to see a few things like Plaza Real, La Boqueria market, La Rambla, Plaza Catalunya, Paseo de Gracia, Casa Battlo, and La Pedrera. We did walk through the Boqueria. La Rambla was torn up because infrastructure work is being done. None of the fountains were flowing in Plaza Cataluyna, although I did point out to T the place where his grandparents met by one of the fountains. We strolled on Paseo de Gracia and passed by Casa Battlo and La Pedrera which are on that street.

ussie in Plaza Real

Since we were so early, we stopped for a beverage at a sidewalk cafe and watched the people walk by. When we got near the Sagrada Familia, I insisted on getting churros from a place I remembered nearby. I love churros. I prefer them with just sugar, no chocolate. There is no photographic evidence of me eating the churros, but I did. And yes, I did share (just a little begrudgingly.)

As it always is, the Sagrada Familia was packed with people. The church is still incomplete after over 100 years of construction, but it is a massive thing. You may have heard that it is now the tallest church in the world at 172.5 meters tall (nearly 566 feet). The church is the design of Antoni Gaudi. He did not live to see much of the completion of the church as he was killed by a streetcar 100 years ago on June 10, 1926. However, to celebrate the completion of the Jesus tower, making the church the tallest in the world, and to celebrate Gaudi, Pope Leo came to Barcelona.

Currently there are two completed sides of the church: the Nativity facade and the Passion facade. Ultimately, there will be a third side: the Glory facade. The fourth side is, well, I don't know. There's a lot of stained glass there. It's a chapel within the church. I won't show too many photos I took of the church because you can go online and see much prettier photos than I took, but I do have a few thoughts I'd like to share.

I am not sure which side of the church I like the best. The Nativity side is oldest and the sculptures and art are more traditional in Gaudi's way, by which I mean it is kind of busy. There are a lot of leaves and curlicues and things.

The Nativity facade

Please direct your attention to the angels in the upper right, just above Joseph, Mary, and baby Jesus in the bottom right of the photo. Here is a close-up of the angels:

the angels

A thing I learned on this tour is that the angels were sculpted, fairly recently, by a Japanese artist, and you can see that the angels have a Japanese look to them. I think it's lovely.

The other side of the church, the Passion side, is more modern and austere. The sculptures are almost geometric. It's hypnotic to me.

the Passion facade

Inside the church, Gaudi brings in nature. The columns are meant to be like trees. Stained glass, one side in blues and greens to represent the morning, and the other side in reds and oranges to represent the sunset. 

the sunlight coming through the stained glass in the late afternoon

If you have the chance to go to Barcelona, please have a tour of the Sagrada Familia. Part of the entry fee goes to the construction fund for the church which is all privately funded. It is truly special. I've been on several tours here, but this time I had a chance to do something I've never done before, and that was to go up in the Passion Tower. It was included in the tour we purchased. 

Fortunately there is an elevator that takes you up the tower (about 90 meters about 295 feet), then you get to walk down about 400 steps in a spiral staircase. I don't love heights or enclosed spaces all that much, but even I could not resist the opportunity.

 

it was a cloudy, misty/rainy day in BCN

T checks out the view with the risen Jesus sculpture to his left

the park where we took the ussie and I ate churros

T and I before we started down from the tower

When we'd had our fill of the glorious Sagrada Familia and spent some dough in the gift shop, we started our walk back to the Gothic Quarter. I'm not gonna lie, my feet hurt, but I would rather walk than sit in a taxi or on a bus. There is so much beauty to see in this city!

When we got near the Gothic Quarter, I suggested we stop at one of my favorite restaurants, Els 4 Gats. Actually, I haven't eaten in the restaurant; I've only been in the tavern. I don't know that much has changed in the place since the days of Gaudi and Picasso, both of whom used to go there. We had tapas, and I was super happy to be there. Here's a pic of the inside:

Els 4 Gats

When we got back to the hotel, T retired to his room. MT and I met Mama and Lizzie for dinner. MT and I didn't eat since we'd just had tapas, but I am always eager to spend time with my people. Don't they look cute?

I don't remember the name of this little restaurant, but it was really cool and old and rustic. 

Afterward, we went to the bar at our hotel. It is a public bar; you don't have to stay in the hotel to have a drink there. I remember when we got there, the rain was pouring, but we had a weirdly cozy table that was not actually in the bar itself, but in like a wide foyer. The outside door was open and we could hear the rain coming down. We were the only people in that part of the bar, so we could be as silly as we wanted to be.

Of course when we are together, we have to take photos. I had recently read about how to give "model" face: smile, but don't let it reach your eyes, widen your eyes, stop smiling, open your mouth slightly. I had to give it a try.

not ready for Vogue

I look slightly terrified. Mama looks surprised. MT looks vaguely amused. I'm surprised Lizzie was able to take the photo because I think she was giggling at the expressions.

My step count on this day, 4 June, was 21,500. I think I got a blister on my pinkie toe and on my heel for my efforts, but it was a good day, and I'd do it again.

I like writing here every other day, so come back on Tuesday when I will tell you how I spent my 60th birthday. Spoiler: it included a photo shoot, but my model face did not make an appearance. See you then!

#3052 a train ride and family time: first night in Barcelona

 

Welcome to BCN, Pope Leo (and Thompson family!)

I love the city of Barcelona, so I'm likely going to write a separate post for each day we spent there. Every day was full of cool stuff, so four posts are warranted, in my opinion.

We left Granada around 11:00 am on June 3 and traveled by train from Granada to Madrid. We decided to travel by train because even though it is a longer travel day, the hassle factor of riding the train is much less than flying. It is also less expensive and much more comfortable. Plus, even at 170 mph, you get to see the countryside, so it's more scenic, too. We liked it!

MT really liked the train ride

we did too!

The first stretch took us from Granada to Madrid, it takes about three and a half hours. As luck would have it, my cousin Sonia and her daughter were in Madrid to see the Bad Bunny concert there that night. They arrived from Barcelona about half an hour before we did, so they hung out and waited for us so we could say hi! FUN!!

MT, T, Sonia, me, and Nicole in Madrid train station

Nicole's girlfriend Julia was there, (she took the photo) so it was nice to meet her, too. A bonus for us was that Sonia bought us calamari sandwiches to take on the next leg of the trip. I really appreciated it, and the sandwiches were delicious!

We had another three or four hours to ride the train to BCN. We took a taxi from the train station to the Gothic Quarter where we were staying at the Gran Hotel Barcino. We checked into our rooms, then met Mama and Lizzie, who were staying at a sister hotel a couple minutes walk away. 

We decided to have some tapas for dinner, so we walked to a couple of places before we found one with space for the five of us. I don't remember what it was called. The tapas were fine, but the best part for me was being in my favorite city with my favorite people!

Lizzie, me, MT, T, and Mama (ussie by Lizzie)

After eating, the menfolk went back to the hotel. Mama, Lizzie, and I wanted to walk around a bit and chat. Mama and Lizzie had just come from Stockholm that day, and I was eager to hear about their visit with Mia and meeting the family there in Sweden. We decided to go to a rooftop bar at a hotel near the Cathedral. It was pretty breezy up there, but the view was beautiful and the cava was delicious.

Mama, me, and Lizzie with the Cathedral 

Cathedral of Barcelona

In the next post, I will talk about our tour of the Sagrada Familia, having tapas at a place Picasso used to frequent, and enjoying family time in the Gothic Quarter.

xo