Sunday, July 5, 2026

#3053 Barcelona: Sagrada Familia, Els 4 Gats, and my model face

 

ussie in front of the Sagrada Familia

On our first full day in Barcelona, I met Lizzie early in the morning for a short walk and to get a coffee. We decided to walk through El Born, just across Via Laietana from the Gothic Quarter. It was nice to stroll there with no one but residents out walking their dogs. El Born is a cool old neighborhood.

we saw this groovy feminist art installation

El Born in the morning

The big plan for the day for all of us was to go to the Sagrada Familia, but not together. My little family of three had a tour of the inside of the church, while Mama and Lizzie were going to walk around the outside. We told Lizzie and Mama we'd see them later, and MT, T, and I set out walking.

We had plenty of time before the tour, so we stopped on the way to see a few things like Plaza Real, La Boqueria market, La Rambla, Plaza Catalunya, Paseo de Gracia, Casa Battlo, and La Pedrera. We did walk through the Boqueria. La Rambla was torn up because infrastructure work is being done. None of the fountains were flowing in Plaza Cataluyna, although I did point out to T the place where his grandparents met by one of the fountains. We strolled on Paseo de Gracia and passed by Casa Battlo and La Pedrera which are on that street.

ussie in Plaza Real

Since we were so early, we stopped for a beverage at a sidewalk cafe and watched the people walk by. When we got near the Sagrada Familia, I insisted on getting churros from a place I remembered nearby. I love churros. I prefer them with just sugar, no chocolate. There is no photographic evidence of me eating the churros, but I did. And yes, I did share (just a little begrudgingly.)

As it always is, the Sagrada Familia was packed with people. The church is still incomplete after over 100 years of construction, but it is a massive thing. You may have heard that it is now the tallest church in the world at 172.5 meters tall (nearly 566 feet). The church is the design of Antoni Gaudi. He did not live to see much of the completion of the church as he was killed by a streetcar 100 years ago on June 10, 1926. However, to celebrate the completion of the Jesus tower, making the church the tallest in the world, and to celebrate Gaudi, Pope Leo came to Barcelona.

Currently there are two completed sides of the church: the Nativity facade and the Passion facade. Ultimately, there will be a third side: the Glory facade. The fourth side is, well, I don't know. There's a lot of stained glass there. It's a chapel within the church. I won't show too many photos I took of the church because you can go online and see much prettier photos than I took, but I do have a few thoughts I'd like to share.

I am not sure which side of the church I like the best. The Nativity side is oldest and the sculptures and art are more traditional in Gaudi's way, by which I mean it is kind of busy. There are a lot of leaves and curlicues and things.

The Nativity facade

Please direct your attention to the angels in the upper right, just above Joseph, Mary, and baby Jesus in the bottom right of the photo. Here is a close-up of the angels:

the angels

A thing I learned on this tour is that the angels were sculpted, fairly recently, by a Japanese artist, and you can see that the angels have a Japanese look to them. I think it's lovely.

The other side of the church, the Passion side, is more modern and austere. The sculptures are almost geometric. It's hypnotic to me.

the Passion facade


Inside the church, Gaudi brings in nature. The columns are meant to be like trees. Stained glass, one side in blues and greens to represent the morning, and the other side in reds and oranges to represent the sunset. 


the sunlight coming through the stained glass in the late afternoon


If you have the chance to go to Barcelona, please have a tour of the Sagrada Familia. Part of the entry fee goes to the construction fund for the church which is all privately funded. It is truly special. I've been on several tours here, but this time I had a chance to do something I've never done before, and that was to go up in the Passion Tower. It was included in the tour we purchased. 

Fortunately there is an elevator that takes you up the tower (about 90 meters about 295 feet), then you get to walk down about 400 steps in a spiral staircase. I don't love heights or enclosed spaces all that much, but even I could not resist the opportunity.
 
it was a cloudy, misty/rainy day in BCN

T checks out the view with the risen Jesus sculpture to his left

the park where we took the ussie and I ate churros

T and I before we started down from the tower

When we'd had our fill of the glorious Sagrada Familia and spent some dough in the gift shop, we started our walk back to the Gothic Quarter. I'm not gonna lie, my feet hurt, but I would rather walk than sit in a taxi or on a bus. There is so much beauty to see in this city!

When we got near the Gothic Quarter, I suggested we stop at one of my favorite restaurants, Els 4 Gats. Actually, I haven't eaten in the restaurant; I've only been in the tavern. I don't know that much has changed in the place since the days of Gaudi and Picasso, both of whom used to go there. We had tapas, and I was super happy to be there. Here's a pic of the inside:

Els 4 Gats

When we got back to the hotel, T retired to his room. MT and I met Mama and Lizzie for dinner. MT and I didn't eat since we'd just had tapas, but I am always eager to spend time with my people. Don't they look cute?


I don't remember the name of this little restaurant, but it was really cool and old and rustic. 

Afterward, we went to the bar at our hotel. It is a public bar; you don't have to stay in the hotel to have a drink there. I remember when we got there, the rain was pouring, but we had a weirdly cozy table that was not actually in the bar itself, but in like a wide foyer. The outside door was open and we could hear the rain coming down. We were the only people in that part of the bar, so we could be as silly as we wanted to be.

Of course when we are together, we have to take photos. I had recently read about how to give "model" face: smile, but don't let it reach your eyes, widen your eyes, stop smiling, open your mouth slightly. I had to give it a try.


not ready for Vogue

I look slightly terrified. Mama looks surprised. MT looks vaguely amused. I'm surprised Lizzie was able to take the photo because I think she was giggling at the expressions.

My step count on this day, 4 June, was 21,500. I think I got a blister on my pinkie toe and on my heel for my efforts, but it was a good day, and I'd do it again.

I like writing here every other day, so come back on Tuesday when I will tell you how I spent my 60th birthday. Spoiler: it included a photo shoot, but my model face did not make an appearance. See you then!


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