#3054 Barcelona: level 60 achieved

I am 60 years old!

Last year when I was thinking about retiring from work and about turning 60, I had a brilliant idea that I would like to spend my birthday in my favorite city, Barcelona, and have lunch at my favorite restaurant, Can Culleretes, with my favorite people: MT, T, Mama, and Lizzie.  All of my working life I my birthday has usually been spent in the office closing the monthly books. In 2026, I wanted to celebrate so many things: my retirement, MT's 65th birthday, my 60th birthday, T's first trip to Europe, and being with my people  It seemed like all I could think about because I wanted it so much. There were a few times I didn't think it would work out, but I'm so thankful that it did. I had a really great day! Let me tell you about it.

We started out having breakfast with a view of the Cathedral. There was a busker singing in the plaza with a great voice. The sun was shining through the scattered clouds. The temperature was very pleasant. I had a cafe con leche and a croissant and I felt great.

MT perusing the breakfast menu

Mama and Lizzie arrived shortly after we ordered - they had breakfast at their hotel. The reason we gathered so early was that Lizzie had scheduled a professional photo shoot for us! Did you know you can do that through Viator? 

We met our photographer, Borja, in front of the Cathedral, and for the next 30 - 40 minutes, he took photos of all of us in nearly every combination EXCEPT with Mama and Lizzie together. How did we miss that combo? Ugh, so disappointed in missing that opportunity. The photo at the top of this post is one that Borja took. I think it turned out okay, although it felt incredibly awkward. I was even mouthing those words as he was snapping the photos. Here are some of the pics we chose:

I love this one even though (or maybe because) I'm tucked away

Lizzie and I are supposed to be kissing Mama, I was cracking up!

father and son posing for their boy-band album cover

Lizzie and I strolling through the Gothic Quarter

another family shot

After photos, we went for lunch at Can Culleretes. Did you know it is the oldest restaurant in Barcelona? They've been in business since 1786. Isn't that incredible?

dreams come true! (photo by Lizzie)

I don't know if I can fully express how delighted I was to be celebrating my birthday at this restaurant with these people. Truly, it was very precious and special for me. I get a little misty-eyed thinking about it now.  The food was great, the service was good, and it was all just really, really wonderful.

I am a lucky, blessed woman

We were all full of delicious Catalan food and a little worn out from smiling for Borja, so after lunch we went to our rooms to rest for a little while. Lizzie texted me after an hour or so and we decided to have art time in their extra hotel room. (It's a weird story, and I'm sure Lizzie will write about it in her blog at some point. For now, just know that Mama and Lizzie had an extra hotel room, so we used it to have art time.) The extra room had a wee balcony that overlooked Via Jaume, so we took this photo, which I love.

could I be any more pleased?

In the evening, the five of us went to Plaza Real to have aperitivo, then MT, T, and I walked to Casa Battlo for a tour. I've never been in the house, and MT was curious to see the inside. If you don't know, Casa Battlo is a house that Gaudi designed for the Battlo family.

exterior of Casa Battlo

MT and I in the first floor room

I'll be honest: I did not love this tour. It was an audio tour, and that part was fine, but there were so many people in the house and I just felt like sheep being herded from room to room. The only rooms we saw were "public" rooms, not anywhere the family lived. The family quarters were on higher floors and you had to pay extra on the spot to have access to those rooms and to the roof where the dragon is. However, none of that was made clear when I was buying the tickets, so I was kind of bummed about it. The architecture is stunning, of course, but I got a lot more enjoyment from seeing Palau Guell the last time I was in Barcelona, and I also really like Gaudi's house in Parque Guell. Take photos of the outside of Casa Battlo, but go to the other places for smaller crowds and equally beautiful architecture. At the house in Parque Guell, you can also see furniture that Gaudi made. 

On the way back to the hotel, I detoured us just a little to see The Kissing Wall. The mural's title is really "El mon neix en cada besada" (The World Begins with Every Kiss.) The mural is created by 4,000 little tiles of individual photos that people sent the artist. Here's a sample:

 It was installed in 2014 by a photographer, Joan Fontcuberta, and a ceramicist, Toni Cumella.

El mon neix en cada besada

I think it is so cool. Can you even imagine putting that together? Fantastic. If you are in Barcelona and want to see it, go to the Cathedral, then turn your back on the Cathedral and make your way down the little street that has the Picasso piece wrapping around the side of the building. You'll pass a little ice cream shop and a cafe and there's the mural. It's just a two minute walk from the Cathedral. 

We got ice cream from that shop we passed - I probably had a scoop of coffee and a scoop of caramel or chocolate. Yum! As we were eating our ice cream, there was singing coming from the area to the right of the Cathedral. There were around a hundred of people singing "Imagine" by John Lennon and other peaceful songs. What a fantastic way to end the day! I will always remember this birthday.

~~~

On Thursday I'll be writing about visiting another house Gaudi designed, Casa Vicens, and about going up to Tibidabo for the views.

xo

#3053 Barcelona: Sagrada Familia, Els 4 Gats, and my model face

 

ussie in front of the Sagrada Familia

On our first full day in Barcelona, I met Lizzie early in the morning for a short walk and to get a coffee. We decided to walk through El Born, just across Via Laietana from the Gothic Quarter. It was nice to stroll there with no one but residents out walking their dogs. El Born is a cool old neighborhood.

we saw this groovy feminist art installation

El Born in the morning

The big plan for the day for all of us was to go to the Sagrada Familia, but not together. My little family of three had a tour of the inside of the church, while Mama and Lizzie were going to walk around the outside. We told Lizzie and Mama we'd see them later, and MT, T, and I set out walking.

We had plenty of time before the tour, so we stopped on the way to see a few things like Plaza Real, La Boqueria market, La Rambla, Plaza Catalunya, Paseo de Gracia, Casa Battlo, and La Pedrera. We did walk through the Boqueria. La Rambla was torn up because infrastructure work is being done. None of the fountains were flowing in Plaza Cataluyna, although I did point out to T the place where his grandparents met by one of the fountains. We strolled on Paseo de Gracia and passed by Casa Battlo and La Pedrera which are on that street.

ussie in Plaza Real

Since we were so early, we stopped for a beverage at a sidewalk cafe and watched the people walk by. When we got near the Sagrada Familia, I insisted on getting churros from a place I remembered nearby. I love churros. I prefer them with just sugar, no chocolate. There is no photographic evidence of me eating the churros, but I did. And yes, I did share (just a little begrudgingly.)

As it always is, the Sagrada Familia was packed with people. The church is still incomplete after over 100 years of construction, but it is a massive thing. You may have heard that it is now the tallest church in the world at 172.5 meters tall (nearly 566 feet). The church is the design of Antoni Gaudi. He did not live to see much of the completion of the church as he was killed by a streetcar 100 years ago on June 10, 1926. However, to celebrate the completion of the Jesus tower, making the church the tallest in the world, and to celebrate Gaudi, Pope Leo came to Barcelona.

Currently there are two completed sides of the church: the Nativity facade and the Passion facade. Ultimately, there will be a third side: the Glory facade. The fourth side is, well, I don't know. There's a lot of stained glass there. It's a chapel within the church. I won't show too many photos I took of the church because you can go online and see much prettier photos than I took, but I do have a few thoughts I'd like to share.

I am not sure which side of the church I like the best. The Nativity side is oldest and the sculptures and art are more traditional in Gaudi's way, by which I mean it is kind of busy. There are a lot of leaves and curlicues and things.

The Nativity facade

Please direct your attention to the angels in the upper right, just above Joseph, Mary, and baby Jesus in the bottom right of the photo. Here is a close-up of the angels:

the angels

A thing I learned on this tour is that the angels were sculpted, fairly recently, by a Japanese artist, and you can see that the angels have a Japanese look to them. I think it's lovely.

The other side of the church, the Passion side, is more modern and austere. The sculptures are almost geometric. It's hypnotic to me.

the Passion facade

Inside the church, Gaudi brings in nature. The columns are meant to be like trees. Stained glass, one side in blues and greens to represent the morning, and the other side in reds and oranges to represent the sunset. 

the sunlight coming through the stained glass in the late afternoon

If you have the chance to go to Barcelona, please have a tour of the Sagrada Familia. Part of the entry fee goes to the construction fund for the church which is all privately funded. It is truly special. I've been on several tours here, but this time I had a chance to do something I've never done before, and that was to go up in the Passion Tower. It was included in the tour we purchased. 

Fortunately there is an elevator that takes you up the tower (about 90 meters about 295 feet), then you get to walk down about 400 steps in a spiral staircase. I don't love heights or enclosed spaces all that much, but even I could not resist the opportunity.

 

it was a cloudy, misty/rainy day in BCN

T checks out the view with the risen Jesus sculpture to his left

the park where we took the ussie and I ate churros

T and I before we started down from the tower

When we'd had our fill of the glorious Sagrada Familia and spent some dough in the gift shop, we started our walk back to the Gothic Quarter. I'm not gonna lie, my feet hurt, but I would rather walk than sit in a taxi or on a bus. There is so much beauty to see in this city!

When we got near the Gothic Quarter, I suggested we stop at one of my favorite restaurants, Els 4 Gats. Actually, I haven't eaten in the restaurant; I've only been in the tavern. I don't know that much has changed in the place since the days of Gaudi and Picasso, both of whom used to go there. We had tapas, and I was super happy to be there. Here's a pic of the inside:

Els 4 Gats

When we got back to the hotel, T retired to his room. MT and I met Mama and Lizzie for dinner. MT and I didn't eat since we'd just had tapas, but I am always eager to spend time with my people. Don't they look cute?

I don't remember the name of this little restaurant, but it was really cool and old and rustic. 

Afterward, we went to the bar at our hotel. It is a public bar; you don't have to stay in the hotel to have a drink there. I remember when we got there, the rain was pouring, but we had a weirdly cozy table that was not actually in the bar itself, but in like a wide foyer. The outside door was open and we could hear the rain coming down. We were the only people in that part of the bar, so we could be as silly as we wanted to be.

Of course when we are together, we have to take photos. I had recently read about how to give "model" face: smile, but don't let it reach your eyes, widen your eyes, stop smiling, open your mouth slightly. I had to give it a try.

not ready for Vogue

I look slightly terrified. Mama looks surprised. MT looks vaguely amused. I'm surprised Lizzie was able to take the photo because I think she was giggling at the expressions.

My step count on this day, 4 June, was 21,500. I think I got a blister on my pinkie toe and on my heel for my efforts, but it was a good day, and I'd do it again.

I like writing here every other day, so come back on Tuesday when I will tell you how I spent my 60th birthday. Spoiler: it included a photo shoot, but my model face did not make an appearance. See you then!

#3052 a train ride and family time: first night in Barcelona

 

Welcome to BCN, Pope Leo (and Thompson family!)

I love the city of Barcelona, so I'm likely going to write a separate post for each day we spent there. Every day was full of cool stuff, so four posts are warranted, in my opinion.

We left Granada around 11:00 am on June 3 and traveled by train from Granada to Madrid. We decided to travel by train because even though it is a longer travel day, the hassle factor of riding the train is much less than flying. It is also less expensive and much more comfortable. Plus, even at 170 mph, you get to see the countryside, so it's more scenic, too. We liked it!

MT really liked the train ride

we did too!

The first stretch took us from Granada to Madrid, it takes about three and a half hours. As luck would have it, my cousin Sonia and her daughter were in Madrid to see the Bad Bunny concert there that night. They arrived from Barcelona about half an hour before we did, so they hung out and waited for us so we could say hi! FUN!!

MT, T, Sonia, me, and Nicole in Madrid train station

Nicole's girlfriend Julia was there, (she took the photo) so it was nice to meet her, too. A bonus for us was that Sonia bought us calamari sandwiches to take on the next leg of the trip. I really appreciated it, and the sandwiches were delicious!

We had another three or four hours to ride the train to BCN. We took a taxi from the train station to the Gothic Quarter where we were staying at the Gran Hotel Barcino. We checked into our rooms, then met Mama and Lizzie, who were staying at a sister hotel a couple minutes walk away. 

We decided to have some tapas for dinner, so we walked to a couple of places before we found one with space for the five of us. I don't remember what it was called. The tapas were fine, but the best part for me was being in my favorite city with my favorite people!

Lizzie, me, MT, T, and Mama (ussie by Lizzie)

After eating, the menfolk went back to the hotel. Mama, Lizzie, and I wanted to walk around a bit and chat. Mama and Lizzie had just come from Stockholm that day, and I was eager to hear about their visit with Mia and meeting the family there in Sweden. We decided to go to a rooftop bar at a hotel near the Cathedral. It was pretty breezy up there, but the view was beautiful and the cava was delicious.

Mama, me, and Lizzie with the Cathedral 

Cathedral of Barcelona

In the next post, I will talk about our tour of the Sagrada Familia, having tapas at a place Picasso used to frequent, and enjoying family time in the Gothic Quarter.

xo

#3051 three nights in Granada, Spain

 

my wee July calendar

Happy July, friends!

The first five months of the year, almost all I could think about was going on The Trip (and healing my broken wrist). The sixth month was The Trip, and now I guess the seventh month will be writing about The Trip and (hopefully) finishing up the travel journal I started. 

Let's jump right in with the first stop on the itinerary: Granada, Spain. The reason we decided to go to Granada was because my husband, MT, had a burning desire to see La Alhambra. The complex has been a must-see destination since he saw an art exhibit in Norfolk, VA of the place several years ago. Since we were going to Spain anyway, couldn't we fit in a visit to Granada? Sure we can! 

How did we get there? Two flights and a car ride: Salt Lake City to Paris, Paris to Malaga, Spain, and Malaga to Granada. We stayed in an apartment/hotel, Elvira Suites. We were on the third floor. There was an elevator, but it wasn't working. The apartment had two bedrooms, one bath, and very good air conditioning. I liked it. Another thing I liked was that the water out of the tap was quite tasty. I had no problem at all drinking water from the tap in every place I stayed on the trip. 

We were tired/exhausted when we arrived in Granada on the evening of the 31 May. We got to the apartment and all went right to bed. We were scheduled to go on the Alhambra tour the next morning, so we needed to get some rest to be ready for it.

In the morning, we had breakfast at a sidewalk cafe near the apartment. I had a link with the directions on where to meet the tour group, but the link took us in the complete opposite direction of the Alhambra and after a 45 minute walk in the hot sun of southern Spain, we totally missed our tour. We took a taxi to the ticket office, hoping for I don't know what, but hoping just the same. A guide immediately came over to us and pointed us to a person who was associated with the tour agency we were supposed to go with. The good news that if people don't show up, the tickets are left at a cafe onsite. The bad news is that our tickets weren't there. Why? It seems that "we" had cancelled the tour back in April. 

It was all kind of confusing. I guess two tours were accidentally booked, so one tour was supposed to be cancelled, but both were cancelled in error. Oh my dog. MT was so upset. He was just...it wasn't good. We were told the tickets through the ticket office were sold out through July. We'd come all this way and we weren't going to be able to see inside the Nasrid Palaces? There were guides that could take us through the open areas, but we wouldn't be able to get into the actual palaces without a ticket. 

Fortunately, I was able to find a last minute tour for three people for the next day, Tuesday, so I snapped it up and saved the day. (Yes, that's me patting myself on the back.) MT calmed down. I was also able to change the flamenco show we planned to see Tuesday night to Monday night, so I was feeling super capable and like a boss bi*ch. 

We ended up walking down the hill through the Alhambra forest. Here are some photos of little streets in the Albaicin neighborhood:

That night we went to a flamenco show in a cave in the Sacromonte neighborhood. We had a tapas dinner to go with the show. If you don't know flamenco, it is passionate, forceful tap dancing with loud clapping and stomping. The music is classical Spanish guitar and often a singer. It was cool as hell.

family ussie in the flamenco show cave

The next day we made it with plenty of time to spare to the correct meeting place for our Alhambra tour. This involved a 20 minute walk uphill through the Alhambra forest which was shady in many places, but it was a very hot day. By the time we got up to the fortress, I was a sweaty, red-faced mess. Thankfully, I had time to drink some water and sit in the shade and recover. MT was happy to be there.

Alhambra, manifested!

I'm not going to take you step by step through the Alhambra or post too many photos. There were so many people up there that my photos of the inside of the palaces aren't very good. You can look online to learn the history and see way better photos than I have. I'll just show you five photos that I took that I especially like, plus a family pic our guide took of us.

tower of the Alcazar

family photo from the Alcazar with Granada behind us

looking down from Alcazar to the forest with the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountain in background

intricate detail 

view of the Alhambra and Granada from Generalife Gardens

Generalife Gardens

There are a couple of things I particularly liked and found interesting about La Alhambra and the Generalife Gardens. One was the extraordinary and intricate detail in the palaces. The Nasrids included text in their designs because their people could read and write, unlike the Christians who preferred to keep their people illiterate which is why Christian churches tell the Bible stories with stained glass. A picture is worth a thousand words and all that. Another thing I liked very much was the use of water and fountains throughout the palaces and gardens. The Muslims washed themselves before prayer, and they prayed five times a day. Water was an important part of their rituals, again, unlike Christians who bathed once a month or something at that time. 

I didn't know anything about what I was going to see other than photos I'd looked at and some elementary reading I'd done. I was pretty fascinated to learn that Ferdinand and Isabella - yes, the King and Queen of Spain who financed Christopher Columbus's trip to the New World - spent time in Granada and in fact are buried there in the Royal Chapel next to the Cathedral of Granada. When we finished our Alhambra/Generalife Gardens tour, we back down through the forest into the city to see the Royal Chapel and the Cathedral.

Granada Cathedral

You couldn't take photos inside the Royal Chapel, but I did in fact see the sarcophagus of Ferdinand and Isabella.

T was plagued with allergies while we were in Granada. We went to a pharmacy to get some allergy relief medicine. He did everything we planned with the exception of going out for dinner on our last night there. He stayed at the apartment to nap and we brought food back for him. MT and I went out to a lovely street, Carrer del Darro, which follows along the Darro River. It was close to our apartment, and filled with both locals and tourists, but it was low key and very pretty.

MT gazing at the Darro River

We had paella to share. (MT is kind of obsessed with paella,) It was a nice evening, and I enjoyed watching the sunset colors wash over the sky above the Alhambra. This last pic is the Alcazar tower from below when it is lit up at night.

view of Alcazar tower

I enjoyed being in Granada. I think if I returned to southern Spain, I might like to stay in Sevilla or even in Malaga (beach town!) and day trip around the area. You can get pretty much everywhere on a train.

Speaking of trains, in the next post, I'll tell you about taking the train from Granada to Madrid, a cool meet-up we had at the Madrid train station, then taking the train from Madrid to Barcelona to meet up with Mom and Lizzie!

If you have any questions or want more info about stuff we did in Granada, put it in the comments and I'll respond in the next post.

xo